At Home at Last—Jane Austen in Chawton Cottage—Part 1

The Bath years, the writing falters, but the research doesn’t

George Austen had had it by 1801.  He had been rector of two parishes, Steventon and Deane, for thirty-seven years.  He had conducted two, maybe three services a week at the two churches.  He had visited the poor, the sick, administered last rites to the dying, and buried them in the churchyards.  He had home-tutored pupils who had lived in his house year-round to prepare for the university.  His wife had to be their de facto mother, and she had fed them, washed their linens, and tended to their fever and chills.  All this, to make extra money to supplement George Austen’s income.  Now, his children were grown up, some were married (Jane and her sister Cassandra were not, and were still at home), he was old(er) and in poor health, and he wanted to live the rest of his life out in a relative peace. Continue Reading

Not Northanger Abbey: Jane Austen, Steventon, and the Church of St. Nicholas—Part 2

(Part 1 here)

A half a mile south of the old rectory is the Church of St. Nicholas, where Jane’s father preached and led his flock, and where she attended services.  It’s also another smooth, macadamized road today—in Jane’s time, it would have been a rough path, slushy in the rains, dusty in dry summers.

The church dates to the 12th Century, so it had been standing there, among the fields and the pastures, for almost seven centuries by the time George Austen came to Steventon to be rector.  The warm southern wall of the church, right of the entry door, hosted purple and white sweet-smelling wild violets that bloomed in summer.  The close-cropped green of the churchyard was shaded by elms, hawthorns and a mighty, aged yew, which had probably been there for as many years as the church itself. Continue Reading

Not Northanger Abbey: Jane Austen, Steventon, and the Church of St. Nicholas—Part 1

 

I’m in a churn of delight when I glance at the GPS and see that the Church of St. Nicholas is not more than a half mile away from the turning.  Like the best of anticipations, I can’t see the church as we drive along the road, only trees that clot the roadside and arc their branches over, letting little tatters of sunlight through.  It’s a slim, country road, a one-laner.  Eventually, we hit the end of the road, and the church raises its steeple on the left in a miniscule churchyard.  Birds coo and chirp, bees hum in the sunshine; there’s one other car in the parking lot, whose occupants leave almost as soon as we get there. Continue Reading